Retinol is probably the most researched ingredient in skincare. It speeds up cell turnover and helps with wrinkles, uneven tone and clogged pores. But if you start too fast, redness, peeling and stinging will be waiting. Here is how to introduce it without drama.
What retinol does
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. Your skin converts it into retinoic acid, the active form that encourages faster cell renewal and collagen production. Results do not come overnight: changes in texture usually show after a few weeks, and on fine lines after a few months of regular use.
Start slowly
- Choose a lower strength, for example 0.2 to 0.3 percent.
- For the first two weeks, apply it two evenings a week, then three, then gradually every other evening.
- A pea-sized amount is enough for the whole face.
- Apply it to completely dry skin and avoid the corners of the nose, the lips and the eye area.
The sandwich method
If your skin is sensitive, apply a thin layer of moisturiser, then retinol, then another layer of moisturiser. The effect is slightly gentler, but your skin tolerates the first weeks much more easily.
What not to mix it with
- On the same evening, avoid AHA and BHA acids such as glycolic and salicylic acid, and benzoyl peroxide. Use them on evenings when you skip retinol.
- Apply vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night.
- Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides are great partners because they soothe and hydrate.
Sun protection is non-negotiable
Retinol makes skin more sensitive to the sun. Every morning, apply SPF 30 or higher, in winter and on cloudy days too. Without it, retinol works against you.
When not to use it
Do not use retinoids during pregnancy or breastfeeding, or on irritated, sunburnt or broken skin. If you have eczema or rosacea, or are using a prescribed skin treatment, ask a dermatologist first.
Normal or too much
Mild flaking and tightness in the first two to four weeks are normal. Strong redness, burning or open sores are not. In that case, take a break for a few days, go back to gentle hydration and start again with less frequent use.
With retinol, patience wins, not strength.